Diesel in Engine Oil

[mickydan6]

I wonder if anyone can help or point me in the right direction. I have a CX-3 1.5 DIESEL....75k on the clock. I had to get a new timing chain replaced as well an oil change then ever since then the DPF light has been on....I have taken it back to the garage about 6 times, I have had the DPF cleaned & flushed but it still keeps coming back on? They have done an engine regen then the light goes out but after about 50 miles its back on again....anyone else had the same issues? It really has put me off the car.

[Bconstantine94]

Anchorman that is interesting not sure how it works, if you have time can you explain more thanks.How do you start the process although I appreciate my CX3 is petrol and doesn't apply.

It’s quite easy to initiate using the same test point in the fuse box that is used for resetting the oil data. It should really only be done if the DPF light comes on as a result of the normal automatic regens fail to work. It’s slightly scary as the car ”goes off on one” and the neighbours won’t thank you for it. It should not be interrupted once started.

I can post a pdf but I don’t really want people dabbling. I prefer to email it if you want to pm me with your email address.

could you send me the pdf on the process for the dpf i have the same problem ! thank you Vasilis

[Lukad45]

Hey, I am also from Croatia. I bought Mazda CX-3 1.5d (2015) less than a week ago. It has around 109 000 kilometers. The day after I bought the CX-3 check engine light came on. Went to service and they told me that the problem is in frequent regeneration and that it needs new injectors (which are around 2 000€-2500€) and today dpf light started blinking. Mazda said that when dpf light starts to blink that the car would not perform any regeneration and if we continued to drive the car it would neeed new dpf filter. I see that one post here is from croatian guy so I would be glad to know what did you do or anyone else.

[Percy247]

Are you sure you need new injectors? Have Mazda confirmed that the injectors are damaged and not spraying properly. Do you believe them? Sometimes you can get reconditioned injectors for €150-200 but then they need recoding at Mazda dealership.

After less than 100,000Km these engines and their intake and emissions systems are full of soot. This can cause blockages in the manifold, the egrs and sensor errors. I would hate for you to spend €2000+ for the problem not be the injectors! I would try and find an injector specialist to test the injectors. They will give you an honest answer and not just encourage you to buy 4 stupidly expensive new injectors. They may also be able to get reconditioned injectors for you

[Jotape_v]

Anchorman that is interesting not sure how it works, if you have time can you explain more thanks.How do you start the process although I appreciate my CX3 is petrol and doesn't apply.

It’s quite easy to initiate using the same test point in the fuse box that is used for resetting the oil data. It should really only be done if the DPF light comes on as a result of the normal automatic regens fail to work. It’s slightly scary as the car ”goes off on one” and the neighbours won’t thank you for it. It should not be interrupted once started.

I can post a pdf but I don’t really want people dabbling. I prefer to email it if you want to pm me with your email address.

Hi Anchorman, could you please send me that info as well?

[Jotape_v]

Hmm well, you’d better get used to it.

I don’t know why the dealer changed the injectors unless it was running badly because it will ordinarily dilute the oil - that’s why the X is there.

So what’s happening? As indicated by Dave above, the vehicle will regenerate (purge out all of the soot caught in the filter) by super heating the exhaust. It does this by injecting neat fuel through the cylinders on the exhaust stroke. It’s a bit like an afterburner on a fighter jet and it literally has pure blue fire inside the exhaust. It stinks of burning. The clues it is regenerating are that the istop doesn’t work, it makes a booming noise on overrun and if you park up before it is finished, the fans will keep running on the engine.

The problem is that so much fuel is sprayed into the cylinders that some of it gets past the piston rings and into the sump. The oil will creep up the dipstick and all you can do is dip it regularly (maybe every couple of weeks) to just get a feel for how quick it fills up. Longer trips are less likely to cause problems than shorter trips because the regeneration will be completed without the chance of diesel pooling on the pistons.

As you’ve seen, the car will tell you if it senses low viscosity but just in case it doesn’t, keep an eye on that oil. It might settle down now you’ve got it. Just an aside, the oil data MUST be reset immediately following an oil change or it will start comparing old oil with its programmed viscosity and throw up a problem prematurely.

It sounds bad all this but it isn’t necessarily. It’s just a case of getting used to it and it is very common on modern diesels.

So what should be done in this case? Is it necessary to change the oil immediately? Or is it possible to keep driving? Would a long drive on highway help to "evaporate" that diesel that mixed with the oil?

Thanks in advance for all of your help

[Percy247]

If the oil is at the X level on the dipstick it needs changing as it has become diluted by diesel and will not do its job of lubrication properly.

[Rachbez]

You can actually force a regen on a CX-3 without turning a wheel. It will run through a variety of engine speeds for set periods of time all on its own.

Hi, could you please send me the how to on how to force a regen please. Thanks